01
Tejano Kitchens
Mexican families in Texas, and the food they made.
Section 03
The Pantry
The markers outsiders read as compromise. 5 entries, each naming the community, the city and the period.
Entries in this section
- 03.1CuminComino as a genuinely regional marker, arriving with Canary Islander settlers, and why its dominance here is historical rather than sloppy.
- 03.2Yellow cheeseA processed cheese that melts without breaking — chosen for behaviour, not as a substitute for something better.
- 03.3WheatThe flour tortilla as a northern-Mexican wheat tradition, not an American shortcut, and what wheat did to the size of things.
- 03.4Lard and fatWhy lard behaves differently in a dough and in a roux, and what changes when it is swapped out.
- 03.5Dried chilesAncho, guajillo and pasilla by flavour rather than heat, and what toasting and soaking actually do.
Other sections
02
The Chili Queens
Open-air stands and the city that ran them off.
04
The Comal
Dry heat, corn and wheat.
05
The Plate
The dishes themselves.
06
San Antonio
Where most of it happened.