01
Tejano Kitchens
Mexican families in Texas, and the food they made.
Section 04
The Comal
Dry heat, corn and wheat. 4 entries, each naming the community, the city and the period.
Entries in this section
- 04.1Corn, lime, masaNixtamalisation: cooking corn in an alkaline solution changes its structure, its nutrition and whether it will hold together at all.
- 04.2Fresh masa and masa harinaWhat is lost in drying, and where the difference shows on the plate.
- 04.3The blisteringDry heat, steam trapped inside the dough, and the puff that tells you the griddle is at the right temperature.
- 04.4The flour tortillaRest, gluten and rolling — why the dough has to sit before it will stretch.
Other sections
02
The Chili Queens
Open-air stands and the city that ran them off.
03
The Pantry
The markers outsiders read as compromise.
05
The Plate
The dishes themselves.
06
San Antonio
Where most of it happened.